Dinghy and outboard

The tender is the boat's everyday transport at anchor. Common choices are a roll-up inflatable, air-floor inflatable or rigid inflatable boat (RIB) with fiberglass/aluminum hull. Tube material is usually PVC or chlorosulfonated polyethylene, commonly called Hypalon/CSM. Hypalon-type fabric generally tolerates tropical UV and repair well; PVC is cheaper and can be entirely adequate for shorter/lighter exposure.

The outboard is a small gasoline four-stroke, typically 4–15hp. A 6hp Yamaha weighs about 60–61lb, so safe lifting/stowage matters. Davits, foredeck lashings, halyards, lifting bridles, fuel tank/line, lock and chaps form part of the system. The dinghy must fit the deck or davit geometry without blocking the liferaft, visibility or emergency access.

Once cruising, the dinghy may be used daily for shore access, groceries, diving and emergency transport. A tropical-UV tube failure or unreliable carburetor is disruptive where parts are scarce. On passage, however, an unsecured tender becomes dangerous windage and a boarding-sea load. Safe ocean stowage matters more than rapid launching.

Repair isolated punctures, valves, rubstrakes and chaps if surrounding fabric remains strong. Widespread sticky fabric, seam failure or rotten transom may make retubing/replacement more rational. Aluminum-hull corrosion and cracked welds need specialist assessment.

Service the outboard with oil, gear oil, spark plug, impeller as due, carburetor/fuel system and anode checks. Persistent old-fuel carburetor problems may need cleaning, not a new motor. Replace when corrosion, low compression, failed lower unit or parts scarcity makes it unreliable. Select power from dinghy rating, loaded use and lifting ability—not maximum badge alone.

• Covered by a standard survey — inventory, obvious tube/transom/hull condition and possibly outboard start if requested. Tenders are often not launched or held inflated overnight.
• Not covered — 24-hour pressure test, valve leak isolation, loaded planing trial, outboard compression/cooling/lower-unit inspection and davit engineering. Treat an untested tender/outboard conservatively. A small-engine shop check ($200–$600) is worth it pre-purchase only when the package carries several thousand dollars of claimed value.

• The broker or owner — “Send dinghy hull ID, material, year, invoice and every patch/valve/transom repair.” “Send outboard model/serial/year and service invoices.” “How is the dinghy and motor secured offshore, and is all lifting/cover/fuel hardware included?”
• The surveyor — “Inflate early and recheck pressure later, inspect seams/transom/hull/lifting points, cold-start the outboard in water, verify cooling and gears, and inspect the proposed passage stowage/load path.”

Inflate to maker pressure when cool, mark tube pressure and recheck after temperature correction. Spray soapy water on valves/seams. Flex fabric at cones and handles for cracking/stickiness. Stand on the transom and watch movement. Cold-start the outboard, confirm a strong cooling stream, select forward/reverse and inspect milky gear oil if the owner permits. Lift the 60lb motor yourself before choosing a lifting plan.