2009 Seawind 1160 "CUBO LISTA", San Rafael, CA 94901 (Rubicon Yachts, Emeryville)

$2,400

Unsplittable; the 8% is consumables and report production. Strong line to spend on — a 2024 re-rig is the single most valuable thing about this boat's rig, and it is worth exactly nothing to an insurer until somebody independent confirms and specifies it. Ask for the original rigger's invoice and wire specification as well; if it exists, this line gets cheaper.

$1,200

Effectively unsplittable — perhaps $120 of consumables in $1,200. The mast beam step on a catamaran is a different and more highly loaded structure than a monohull's mast step, and the targa arch carrying traveller load is a Seawind-specific detail worth naming explicitly when you brief the rigger. Cheap line, high information value.

$4,600

My reasoning. Rope-heavy: a cat this size with a self-tacker and a screacher needs a lot of line — roughly $2,400 of $4,600 in rope, service kits and furler parts. Ten Spinlock clutches is a full day on its own but a genuinely simple one. The screacher torsion-cable furler is the item to be careful with — torsion cables have a service life and a damaged one is expensive, so have a rigger look at that specific component even while you do the rest.

$2,400

My reasoning. Higher labour share than a new sail because you are buying loft hours plus modest hardware — reef points, rings, webbing, chafe patches — rather than a whole sail. This is a good line: a 2022 mainsail with a third reef added is far better value than a new sail, and third reefs are exactly what the Milk Run's squalls call for. No loft hourly rate is published so shopRate is null.

$5,600

My reasoning. Parts assumed at roughly $1,900 of $5,600 across both engines. The specific defect to raise with whoever does this: 3YM30 serials below E05566 shipped an undersized heat exchanger core that overheats at sustained revs, so read both serial numbers before agreeing scope. Two engines is also the argument for owner involvement — you will be maintaining both of these yourself for a year with no yard within a thousand miles.

$6,000

My reasoning. Parts assumed at roughly $2,400 of $6,000 — two diaphragm kits at $400-500, lip seals $200, anodes $150, oil $100, propeller service $600. Two caveats worth carrying into your model. Anodes and gear oil ARE owner jobs at any haulout and should not be paid for at $165/hr in future years. And Yanmar's own guidance on the diaphragm interval has drifted — YBW forum discussion records it moving from 'inspect every two years, no replacement interval' to a five-year replacement recommendation adopted after Volvo set one, with participants reporting they consistently find seals in perfect condition. Ask whether both need doing or one.

$3,600

My reasoning. Parts assumed at roughly $1,370 of $3,600 — inspection ports $300, polishing circuit $500, dual primaries serving three consumers $400, hose and fittings $170. The aluminium-specific risk to check: these tanks commonly pit from the outside where they sit against foam or wet bilge surfaces, so a tank that passes a pressure test can still be thinning. Ask whether anyone has looked at the outside of them.

$3,200

My reasoning on the split, but the certification point is sourced — an insurance broker quoted in Battle Born's write-up warns that claims may be denied where a system was not installed by an ABYC-certified electrician. Parts assumed at roughly $950 of $3,200. Note this figure is low for the described scope compared with the Tayana's $8,500 for similar work, which may reflect the Seawind's newer and more coherent starting point, or may mean the scope is narrower than the label suggests. Worth checking which.

$3,400

My reasoning. Parts assumed at roughly $1,530 of $3,400 — pull-pull cables $400, bracket fabrication or factory part $800, quadrant hardware $330. The phrase 'bring up to Seawind's later design' in your own label implies a known factory revision, which is worth chasing directly with Seawind: if there is a service bulletin or a supplied part, that changes both the cost and how you document it for insurance and resale. Fit and sea-trial the emergency steering yourself.

$8,800

Rate is sourced (KKMI bottom prep $145/hr; Berkeley general $125/hr and DIY lay days $2.50/ft/day). Of $8,800 I put roughly 45% — about $4,000 — on the rail haulout, blocking and lay days, which is neither labour nor parts and which you pay whoever does the work. Multihull-capable yards are scarce in the Bay and price accordingly, and a 1160 is wide, so confirm the yard can take her beam before assuming this figure. Paint for two hulls roughly $1,500. This line is at 100% probability in your model, so it is the one certainty on the boat.

$4,500

My reasoning. Four bearings at roughly $1,350 of $4,500 in parts, the rest labour and lifting. Sequence this into the rail haulout rather than paying for a second lift — the two lines share the same yard visit and combining them is worth more than any labour saving available on either. Note this line carries a 55% probability in your model, so it may not happen at all.

$3,800

My reasoning. Sealant, fasteners and any new backing plate stock is perhaps $550 of $3,800, so this is nearly pure hours and one of the better DIY trades on this boat at roughly $70 of avoided labour per owner hour. The word 'load-path' in your own label is the right instinct: on a cat the targa arch carries mainsheet traveller load, so its feet are not the same class of fitting as a cleat. Split the line at that seam.

$6,000

My reasoning. More fittings than a monohull of similar length — I assumed fourteen to eighteen across both hulls at $180-320 each, roughly $2,900 of $6,000 in parts. Tying a soft plug to every fitting is the owner's half and takes an afternoon. Sequence with the rail haulout.

$3,000

Rate is sourced — KKMI bills sanitary systems at $179/hr, its highest published trade rate, which is the best argument in this file for doing a job yourself. Parts assumed at roughly $1,350 of $3,000. Hose runs through two hulls means more length and more awkward access than a monohull equivalent, so I have allowed more hours than the boat's size alone suggests.

$950

My reasoning. The gypsy is the cost — $400-600 of $950. The hard part of this line is not the labour, it is ordering the correct part: gypsy pitch must match the chain's actual pitch and calibration, and mismatched-but-nearly-right is the classic expensive mistake. Get the chain first, measure it, then order. That sequencing is worth more than the $380 of labour.

$1,100

FLAG: $1,100 looks light for this scope. A compliant vented locker that drains overboard, a solenoid, an alarm, and continuous-run tubing to two separate appliances at opposite ends of a 38ft catamaran is more material and more labour than this figure implies — I would expect it to be closer to double. You told me not to re-price and I have not, but treat this number as optimistic. Parts assumed at roughly $550 of $1,100 — solenoid $200, alarm $150, regulator and tubing $200.

$3,200

My reasoning. Ferrari mesh cut and edged to pattern with bolt ropes and hardware is the bulk of it — roughly $2,250 of $3,200. Lacing a trampoline correctly and evenly matters more than it looks: an uneven tramp loads the anchorages unevenly, and those anchorages are on your deck-hardware line. Do the two together. Canvas trade rates are not published, so the $125 is an assumption.

$5,000

My reasoning, and the biggest uncertainty in this line is a question I could not answer: whether the Seawind's saloon windows are gasketed or bonded. Bonded windows on a catamaran saloon carry structural load and re-bonding is specialist work with a real failure mode. Establish that before treating the DIY hours as real. Parts assumed at roughly $1,750 of $5,000 — acrylic glazing $1,200, gaskets $400, sealant $150. The tri-fold door track is a Seawind-specific item worth a parts availability check while you are at it.

$3,200

My reasoning. Units dominate at roughly $2,100 of $3,200 for a fridge and a freezer. Push on the word 'service' in your own label before assuming replacement — Isotherm compressors are often fine at seventeen years and the fault is commonly a failed thermostat, a tired fan or degraded insulation, all of which are cheap. A diagnosis is worth more here than a labour split.